Day 2 (June 19): In Which I Almost Fall Off A Cliff

Another early start! I awoke to the pleasant surprise of a massive gecko clinging to the wall over the bed. How it arrived there through layers of mosquito net and canvas, the world may never know. Afterwards, it was back on the road for us, and we said goodbye to Ecoscience Lodge with gratitude for the running water and soft beds in our hearts. However, we weren’t headed right for the roughage yet; instead, we were meant for the Ngorongoro Forest Lodge, our last bastion of luxury before the field station at Olduvai Gorge.

In front of the pool at Ngorongoro Forest Lodge!

Traveling through the Tanzanian countryside, we skirted around Manyara National Park, travelling up the eastern escarpment of the East African Rift Valley. We took a quick break at a town called “Mto Wa Mbu,” which means “river of mosquitos,” then journeyed onward to our lodgings for the night. And what lodgings they were! I’ve stayed in my fair share of luxurious spots in my life, but this one might take the cake. The view from our room overlooked a rolling green mix of forest and field, ringed by mountainous hills and spotted with distant houses. The inside of the space was lavishly comfortable as well, and once we spotted the pool, everyone in the group was sold.

The waterfall that almost killed me getting to it.

Later, once we had settled in, we traveled to the Ngorongoro Forest Conservation Area for a quick hike. At least, that’s what I thought we were doing. Unfortunately for me and some of the less athletically inclined members, the trip was much more arduous than expected. Halfway through, I was sure my legs were about to give out (literally) and was dreading having to tell everyone I wasn’t making it back. Fortunately, by focusing all my energy on not slipping and falling to my death, I was able to make it back to the cars, if only by the skin of my teeth.

The hike wasn’t all huffing and puffing though! We took a trail to the elephant caves, a salt lick where elephants come to supplement their diets. Lo and behold, we were lucky enough to see the titular animals in person! Though it meant we couldn’t go directly to the spot, we enjoyed watching a small family moving up and down the steep embankment with uncharacteristic grace. The second destination was a glorious waterfall that was tricky to reach, but truly rewarding to see. Along the entire trip, we were treated to fascinating facts from our ranger guides, who had all the local knowledge. Post-hike, we retired exhausted to an evening of good food followed by the day’s lectures. Continuing our ungulate education first, then moving to elephants and ending with primates gave us handy information that will hopefully be put to use in tomorrow’s adventure. I cannot wait to arrive at Ngorongoro Crater tomorrow, and I hope with all my heart we can finally see the hyenas or small cats I have been waiting for!

The view from our balcony at Ngorogoro Forest Lodge.

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